My day has been frustrating, painful and tiring in equal measure – but it concluded reasonably well.
I woke very early on the boat - around 5am. The cabin was not as comfortable as the boat I had taken out to Greece and the noise of the engines combined with the rattling of doors, conspired to keep me awake from that point on. Some reading and some reflecting saw me use up two hours before I decided to get up and face the day.
I ate in the self-service restaurant as I had the previous evening. Fresh orange juice, yoghurt, scrambled eggs and bacon - plus two cups of hard core coffee got me started for the day.
I enjoyed the old man who served the food. He must have been 70 years old and remembered me from the night before. “What to give the young man to make him strong? – for he is a brave young man!” was his greeting at the food counter. I admired his memory, his customer service skills and his love of life. I also enjoyed being called a brave young man, when – at 7am – I looked far from young or brave!
Breakfast dealt with I went on deck and admired the wake left behind the boat and thought of how many things it symbolized. I returned to my room and read Hemingway for a couple of hours before showering and then packing.
I went to the central reception area on the boat to wait for docking. While I was there I wrote about departure and my feelings about leaving Greece.
The boat was late – more than an hour – but I didn’t know this until I wasted an hour standing by the elevator waiting for the boat to dock so I could return to my bike. I whiled away the time writing to friends and moaning about the delay to myself.
Eventually the boat docked and – frustrated and annoyed – I went below deck to my motorcycle and loaded up.
By the time I got off the boat I was at least an hour and a half behind schedule with a long journey ahead. I was annoyed and in a shitty mood.
It took an age to exit Ancona with single lane traffic and lots of it… but eventually I made it to the awful Autostrada and headed north.
Wearing just a t-shirt and some light trousers the initial weather - sun and a temperature of about 28 degrees – was pleasant.
But the traffic was terrible and worse, there were road works continually bringing the highway to single lane for many kilometers and resulting in me riding between cars and trucks and emergency lanes just to make headway. I was more angry now and in a worse mood. Several times I had to brake hard to avoid collisions with car drivers and trucks.
As I neared Bologna, the heavens opened with a vengeance and I was instantly soaked. The rain came down like stair rods and it felt like being repeatedly shot with a nail gun. And suddenly it was cold.
I could barely see out of my visor as trucks sped past while I waddled around in the heavy rain of the storm. I was frightened and pissed off that the driving conditions demanded I focus on the road and not the music I was listening to.
Eventually the rain storm subsided and I could see once more. The road was dull and the traffic made it worse. I pressed on, determined to put some kilometers under my belt before stopping.
Eventually I stopped at a truck stop on the highway to grab some lunch and join a conference call of my firm’s leadership group. No rest for the wicked.
I was impressed by the sign at the truck stop. It said that the establishment did not sell alcohol or pornography, but that coffee ordered between midnight and 5am was free of charge. Very ethical and sensible – if ever so slightly incongruous with the world of truckers.
I ordered a piece of pizza and a soft drink and then allowed myself to be persuaded into making it a “meal package” by adding fruit salad. Ha!
I sat and ate quickly while emailing colleagues for updates in preparation for my call.
The man next to me was a large Italian trucker and possible a member of the Mafia by the looks of him. He had three pieces of pizza which he woofed down quickly and then gulped a quick espresso down too. Afterwards he sat for moment, then stood up, farted loudly and impressively, and left. Lovely. I began my conference call and gave my report & update from the car park of the truck stop.
Back on the bike I was still frustrated and not myself. Even the music couldn’t bring me round. The sky was grey and cloudy, threatening more rain at any moment. I was only just drying off from the first storm.
As I passed Verona, a place of much rambling in years gone by, the cloud cleared the temperature improved. I felt better, but not much as the traffic was still lousy – forcing me to swerve and weave among the trucks and cars. But at least the sun was out.
Eventually the sun warmed my bones and I started to settle into a rhythm of riding – and began to enjoy my music, singing along at the top of my lungs to an audience of car and truck bound people, deaf to my joy.
Every part of my body was killing me – back, legs, arms and face – as I pushed myself to complete another 150 kms before stopping briefly to refuel and stretch my legs.
I hate motorway riding at the best of times, but today it was true to say that the first 500kms of my journey were hellish.
Eventually I left the motorway and joined the mountain road to the Brenner Pass (Brennero). Suddenly my whole mood lifted and I was in heaven once more.
Such a gorgeous road, such amazing scenery – and now, few trucks! All replaced by motorcycles. My brothers were in the mountains having fun like me!
I enjoyed the last 50 kms of my ride enormously. While I was very tired, the road and the scenery inspired me – not to mention music which included Bob Dylan, Mark Knopfler, JJ Cale, Lucinda Williams (look her up – she’s amazing), Guns N Roses (try Sweet Child of Mine while riding at 160 kms/hour through a valley surrounded by great rocky mountains!) and an amazing song from Keane (“Somewhere Only We Know” - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oextk-If8HQ )
Lyrics here:
Somewhere Only We Know - Keane
Somewhere Only We Know - Keane
I walked across an empty land
I knew the pathway like the back of my hand
I felt the earth beneath my feet
Sat by the river and it made me complete
Oh simple thing where have you gone
I'm getting old and I need something to rely on
So tell me when you're gonna let me in
I'm getting tired and I need somewhere to begin
I came across a fallen tree
I felt the branches of it looking at me
Is this the place we used to love?
Is this the place that I've been dreaming of?
Oh simple thing where have you gone
I'm getting old and I need something to rely on
So tell me when you're gonna let me in
I'm getting tired and I need somewhere to begin
And if you have a minute why don't we go
Talk about it somewhere only we know?
This could be the end of everything
So why don't we go
Somewhere only we know?
Oh simple thing where have you gone
I'm getting old and I need something to rely on
So tell me when you're gonna let me in
I'm getting tired and I need somewhere to begin
And if you have a minute why don't we go
Talk about it somewhere only we know?
This could be the end of everything
So why don't we go
Somewhere only we know?
This could be the end of everything
So why don't we go
Somewhere only we know?
Another song which I listened to twice was “It’s All Over Now Baby Blue” by Dylan. I love that song and have both played it live and recorded it. Magnificent. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YN25Pp0hrOM )
As I headed into the mountains and climbed, the frustration of the previous part of the day disappeared as I rode across biking Nirvana. These roads were designed by a man who travels on two wheels. No doubt about it.
And as I rose up the cool air filled my nostrils and refreshed my cheeks. All I could smell was pine trees – as though someone had stuffed an air freshener in my nose. With the small difference that this was REAL!
Oh what joy to be on such a road with such beautiful scenery! Small wooden houses, medieval stone churches and endless forest capped by a huge stone mountain. A feast for the eyes.
As I climbed I encountered more and more bikes. At first I felt joy in the camaraderie of the biking community, but then I saw license plates and my nationalism came to a fore – along with my Alpha spirit. Belgians, French and most of all Germans were dispatched dispassionately as I accelerated through the bends, overtaking on blind corners and generally enjoying 15 minutes of being a biker hooligan!
So long guys, I’m heading to the top of the mountain!
Well, near to the top. . .
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| Mountains - the biker's first love! |
I arrived in Val Di Gardena just before 7pm and parked up at my wonderful hotel – The Alpen Royal - one of the “Leading Small Hotels of the World”.
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| Val Di Gardena |
I looked around at the amazingly beautiful valley and thought two thoughts:
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Where are you Julie???
- God must have used up most of the green paint on this part of the world. Between grass fields and forest, it was a complete sea of green – refreshing, natural, and wholesome.
- I expected Julie Andrews to pop out of the bushes any moment and burst into song!
On check-in, I was given an upgrade to a suite. Nice.
The I was escorted to the bar for a “Welcome Drink”.
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| 5 Star Biker! |
As I felt very welcome I had three drinks – pink champagne. They served some lovely nibbles including tomato bruschetta, some local Speck, and some wonderful pieces of aged Parmesan. I consumed and relaxed in the fading sun of the day – content in my Sound Of Music surroundings.
I had a wonderful dinner at the hotel’s gourmet restaurant (more in a separate piece) – and now I lie ready for sleep and to dream of the Brenner Pass tomorrow.
It’s one of the most famous mountain passes in Europe and paradise for bikers!
I can't wait!
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