Αναθεώρηση Part 2: Places . . .

Picking out some of my favourite places of 2011 has been hard too - not least because I travel a great deal for both work and pleasure.

With the exception of #11 - all the other places are places I have been to before, and in most cases many times. I suppose they make this list because these places were either significant this year in a particular way (although that is more covered in a later part of this review when I look at "moments" which by definition have both a place as well as a time) or because my great love or affection for these places is what took me back this year to revisit them...

If anyone reading this was in any of these places with me this year - thank you. For it is certain I enjoyed them even more because you were there...

Let the journey begin:

1. Cape Town

I began 2011 in Cape Town, South Africa. The weather was beautiful, I was with a nice bunch of people who I didn’t know well and started the year on a positive note.

I have been to Cape Town several times before and indeed went back again for business later in the year, but on Jan 1st 2011 it was really a lovely place to start the year and also some great friendships.

2. Egypt / Cairo & Alexandria

Early in the year I travelled to Cairo - a city I know reasonably well having been there many times in the last 7 or 8 years - shortly after the first phase of the revolution.

The feeling of change was palpable. Hope. Belief in a better future. Faith in human values. The value of the individual. All this against a backdrop of burned out buildings, damaged property, violence, chaos and pain.

Alexandria in the early summer was similar. A different scene by the coast with the Mediterranean as a backdrop. I spent a weekend with a group of what are best described as Egypt’s elite in terms of businessmen, intellectuals, commentators, artists and young up-and-coming leaders. Excitement, opportunity, nervosity, anxiety provided a heady cocktail for discussion on the beach and at the parties in the evenings.

Egypt is one of the oldest civilizations in the world and home to around 80 million people. The change there, while catalyzed by the earlier regime change in Tunisia, really marked Arab Spring as the defining political and social event of the decade and of the millennium so far in the Middle East. And it is still unfolding. . .

3. Aristi

I spent my birthday with a small group of friends in the mountain village of Aristi in the Zagarochoria area of Northern Greece – a little further north from the lake town of Ioannina.

I have been to Aristi several times and always stayed in the wonderful Aristi Mountain Resort (http://www.aristi.eu/en/&gclid=CMv9u6XFrq0CFUoa6wodWxU0mg )

The hotel is absolutely lovely and the staff very friendly and helpful. The food is a nice combination of local traditional dishes with a twist of modern flair and there is a fine selection of great earthy red wines to settle into sitting by a wood fire.

We had a pretty lazy time while there and a lot of great laughs and food. Good company around a dining table can never be bettered in my opinion and our discussions ranged from the sublime to the ridiculous over the nights we were there.

Spring time was in the air and the first mountain flowers were spreading across the landscape like a multi-coloured quilt while the fresh bracing air the accompanies such altitude made the idea of a cup of mountain tea - or perhaps something quite considerably stronger - a popular option during the mornings and afternoons.

And we roasted a goat for my birthday celebrations as I stepped into my 40^th year. (More on that in another part of my review of 2011)

Aristi - One of my favourite places in Greece and a refuge from the world. Bliss.

4. Stresa

During my Odyssey to Greece from the UK on my motorcycle – which is well documented elsewhere in this collection of postcards – I stayed at Stresa on the shores of Lake Maggiore. While the hotel disappointed and the food I ate wasn’t the very best, the lake was beautiful. In particular the morning of my departure as I drove along the shoreline.

What was memorable about this in particular was my recollection of my father John.

We had spent a summer holiday in Stresa when I was a child. My father never had time to spend with us kids when we were growing up as he was always busy at work. He never saw me play sports or compete in athletics – those attendances were always carried out by my mother who was the token dad on the touchline. 

But on holidays my father would have more time and I remember in Stresa we got a small rubber inflatable boat and rowed out to the lake (it must have been incredibly dangerous if my memory serves as the rubber boat was flimsy and tiny – but hey, we survived). 

My dad taught me and my brother to row, and also how to fish with a spinner (not that we caught anything mind you!). I remember it fondly as one of the few moments of “father & son” time in my childhood – or at least at an age when I was still receptive to my father and his instruction / guidance.

Stresa brought back those memories and other memories of my father. It never ceases to frustrate the hell out of my that he didn’t live long enough to see anything of the things I have done in my life that would have made him proud. A curse indeed.

5. Urbino

Urbino – city of the Dukes – was also a place I visited on my odyssey to Greece this last summer.

Another place I have been to many times and which I have written about elsewhere in this blog.

I remember clearly this summer – as at all the other times I have been – the delight of turning a corner on the windy hilltop road and seeing the resplendent red brick of Urbino's renaissance buildings perched on the top of the hill. The steady rewinding of time as one climbs up and wanders through the cobbled streets. The peace and quiet of a place with very few - if any - motorized vehicles. The history oozing out of every corner, the sense of learning perpetuated today by the university, building on the humanist principles of the Dukes and their courtiers from centuries gone by.

And of course wonderful strolls or "passeggiate" round the town and the delicious food . . . Urbino is a divine experience and was a high note in a journey of high notes.

6. Parathalasso

The Parathalasso at Monastiraki Nafpaktou – outside of Nafpaktos – was where I settled down to spend my time during the summer in Greece.

It was my paradise for a week or more where I spent my days writing, reading, cooking, drinking, discussing, playing guitar and sleeping. I was alone for most of the time, but had visits from my lovely friend Iris with her husband Giannis (a fellow biker!) and someone else who came right at the end of my stay.

Some wonderful conversations with myself as well as with others, in the heat of the Greek summer sun and washed down with gallons of rough wine.

It combined pretty much the entire essence of Greece for me this year and I was truly happy there.

7. Istanbul

Istanbul is one of my favourite cities in the world – and I have written about her many times, and photographed her also.

I didn’t visit as frequently this year as in previous years, but some of my most powerful moments played out there in 2011.

It always symbolizes to me a meeting place. A meeting of east & west, of ancient and modern, of people, of cultures, of ideas, of cuisines.  It is a crossroads and a stopping off point. An arrival and a departure in one.

8. London

I have started to rekindle my relationship with several cities this year – stimulated by a number of things, both circumstantial and existential.

As a non-resident former resident, I return to London with a mix of emotions, but usually with the intent of taking the best out of the city which is easy to do when you don’t live there full time and have a little money…

Of course I have friends in London also so I can combine visiting people with visiting favourite places – from pubs to clubs, restaurants to cafes, galleries, bookshops, favourite streets, exhibitions, shops and live music . . .

London has a lot and is a place that is also partly home partly not home. One day I suspect I will live there again and I will be proud again to be a Londoner.

9. Paris

I hadn’t been to Paris for many years before my visit late in 2011.

I confess I went on a whim and to escape from myself for a couple of days. To reflect and connect, to be in a place full of culture and romance and to immerse myself fully into a place of dreams to avoid my nightmares – and Paris did exactly what I needed.

Of all the things I wrote this year, one of my favourites was the “Carte Postale” from Paris (http://osapp.blogspot.com/2011/11/paris-3-carte-postale.html).

I thoroughly enjoyed Paris again and decided that I must return again soon and not leave it another 20 plus years. But next time I go with a woman I’m crazy about, a fellow gourmet or an artist – not on my own.

10. Athens

Another city I fell back in love with this last year is Athens.

I used to live and work in Athens for around 6 years and knew the city pretty well – although as a resident does, and not as the visitor. Just as I used to know London before I became a visitor (i.e. hardly ever going to museums, galleries, shows, exhibitions etc and just flitting from one bar to another and restaurant grazing in the main – not that this is bad, but the visitor makes more effort in a city.)

I have missed Athens terribly I realize – and with it Athenians and the Athenian way of life.

Of course things are tough in Greece right now and people are hurting – including and maybe especially Athenians – but life goes on and people still eat, drink, discuss, argue, consider and debate when not at work. And Athenians do it in an environment ideally adapted to these things. Their city.

I have been several times this year to Athens and each time have the combination of warm memories from the past and a thirst and hunger to live experiences there now.

I missed the long lunches that turn into drinks and then into dinner. I missed the grazing around the cafes and restaurants of Kolonaki, or the mezopoleia in Gazi or Kerameiko. I missed strolling around the Acropolis, stopping to drink a coffee and read the paper in Thiseio. I missed sitting down for fish and ouzo in Nea Filadelphia or down in Pireaus.

Most of all I miss my friends from Athens with whom I did a big portion of my growing up and whose company and conversation sustained me.

So I’ve been going back, and hanging out. Seeing people and the city.

My last trip was just before Xmas and while I went primarily for one meeting, I met up with a lot of friends and had a great time. And when I went to leave for Dubai, I didn’t want to go…

So Athens will feature more frequently in my 2012 agenda, and I cannot wait to organize a trip there with my Dubai based friends and show off my “second home”.

11. The Places I Haven’t Been Yet

Another favourite place is the place I haven’t been yet, but dream about constantly as I try endlessly to reshuffle the deck of priorities in my future travel plans . . .

There are many places I want to go next year and beyond – including some of the places mentioned above, but four specific places that I am curious to visit are New Zealand, Argentina, Japan, Vietnam.

New Zealand sounds like a natural paradise with a reputation for unspoiled nature, peace and quiet, wonderful gastronomy and of course great wines. Friends of mine have done motorcycle tours there and that sounds like a great way to see the place.

Argentina has been calling me for a long time – Buenos Aires and its grandeur, the countryside with Gauchos and the wonderful meats and the drama of Patagonia. I’ve never been to Latin America and Argentina is where I want to start.

Slowly, slowly I have been visiting Asia more and two countries I am dying to visit are Japan and Vietnam. Both for their cuisine, but also their history and in the case of Japan, its very different culture / way of life which fascinates me.

Finally, there is one journey I want to make next year – the Camino De Santiago. The 800km pilgrimage by foot from the south of France to Compostela in North West Spain. It is one of the oldest pilgrimage routes in the world and while I am not planning on doing it for religious reasons, I do believe that it will be spiritually rewarding as all road trips are. Just this one will be on foot and not in a Mustang or on top of a motorcycle!

Odyssey - the journey to Greece (2011) - Part 3 – Urbino

The ride from Stresa was exhausting today. I think my age is catching up with me - in the old days I'd have done this distance (500kms) and change.

I took the motorway most of the way to save time and it was dull and hot.

Eventually I stopped and took off my jacket, stashed it under my luggage sack on the back and headed off a good deal cooler. Now, of course, I have two tone arms...

Eventually I pulled of the autostrada and headed up into the hills to Urbino...and I recalled why I love biking so much...

After 450 plus kms of back ache, sun burn, sore shoulders, numb bum and a face full of insects, I hit a beautiful windy road up into the hills. Single carriageway, tree lined all the way - providing much needed shade - and a handful of cars to pick off with the bike revving through the gears.

Wind in my face, astoundingly beautiful scenery all around me and the feeling of total freedom and excitement that only a motorcycle can provide.

Not only can you feel all the elements on a bike - cold, heat, rain, bumps in the road etc - you can also smell your surroundings - the freshness of pines, the occasional cooking aroma wafting out of a village house, the smell of freshly cut grass, the scent of lemons etc. It is a uniquely intense experience - and incredibly stimulating and satisfying.

Then there is the machine - a hot mass of pistons beating their hardest, the engine thumping a few inches beneath your seat, the grip of the bars as you aim for the next corner, the compression as you brake hard, and then the twist of the wrist to unleash enormous amounts of immediate power straight to one wheel underneath you...and you surge forward with urgency and a hint of danger. The thrill is addictive (I was hooked 25 years ago) and progressive.

I honestly don't think there are many other activities which make me feel quite so alive as riding my bike - whether on the track, on the road, in the woods, the mountains or the desert. I will never be able to give up the combination of total freedom and implicit danger. It's a magical cocktail.

And it is also by far the best way to see the world in locomotion. No windscreens, no metal cage to obstruct the view. When on a bike you are present in the moment and you are fully aware. Totally focused.

Those last 28kms to Urbino made my whole riding day. A grin plastered across my face as wide as the valleys I rode through, climbing to this gorgeous red brick city of the Dukes - once the cultural centre of all Italy and the seat of the biggest contributors to the Renaissance - the Duke of Montefeltro and his successors, the Della Rovere family.

They not only patronised the arts and humanities from the 15th century onwards - they gave them a home. Poets, architects, painters, musicians, philosophers and so on were all welcomed to Urbino and the court developed an international renown. No more celebrated than in The Book of the Courtier by Urbino resident writer and himself a courtier to the Duke - Baldassare Castiglione. His book describes - through conversations - what makes a perfect gentleman and courtier. A manifesto for renaissance man.

I first read that book while studying Italian at University some 20 years ago and it inspired my curiosity in Urbino, its history and the great court and all that it contributed to history and art. Castiglione lived 500 years ago at a time when Urbino was at its zenith and his book is considered a great classic. If you have the time & inclination - it is a great read and available in translation from Penguin.

The city he writes from and the court he writes about stand almost brick perfect today - a sudden burst of buildings appearing as one rounds a hilltop bend. I remember the first time I came here - many years ago on another motorcycle trip - and literally having my breath taken away by its beauty.

I have been here many times since and always make a point of stopping here if I am remotely nearby - and several times have made the pilgrimage especially.

It is indescribably beautiful and possesses both a poetry and a majesty that befits its status in Italian history.

It is highly likely that my next marriage proposal - assuming I am the one proposing! - will take place in this little city. It is a place of great romance, charm and import. Befitting of a marriage proposal and it will be important that the next wife approves of Urbino - although I suppose I can always continue to come on my own!

This trip however I am still between wives so am enjoying Urbino's peace & quiet (it is home to only 15,000 people and approximately another 15,000 attending the university which continues the city's tradition of being a centre for men of letters and learning. And I dare say women too.) - and enjoying being back in a place that is both familiar and magical.

I am staying in the Albergo San Domenico - a converted convent opposite the Ducal Palace - which is really lovely. Simple but very peaceful and comfortable. I am writing this from one of the cloisters in the hotel surrounding a quiet courtyard, sipping Prosecco and unwinding after my ride.

I have done a quick reconnaissance of the town to ensure that my favourite little trattoria is still there - it is and I hope to dine there this evening on traditional food of the area - and to soak up the architecture, the chiaroscuro of the little alleys twisting and turning around the city and to watch the Italians make their "passegiata" or early evening stroll.

As is my habit, the guidebooks and lists of sites stay quietly forgotten in the hotel and I wander aimlessly preferring just to watch life go by and take it all in. I'm not immune to learning - far from it - but prefer to graze and intuit rather than strain and study...that which comes from natural curiosity and fortuitous experience is likely to remain and be more important than that that is forced.

My mild disappointment with Stresa last night - mainly the hotel which has seen better times and the food which was at best average - has been mitigated by my utter delight at being here. I find myself happy and at peace in Urbino - inspired to think of beautiful things and avoid the drudgery of everyday existence.

This is one of "my places" in the world - and I highly commend it. Indeed I highly recommend you make Urbino one of your places too.

Tomorrow I set off early for Ancona and the boat to Greece. Another leg of my odyssey and a chance to relax from the bike riding and prepare myself for the delights of being in Greece for a week or so and changing pace & rhythm to something altogether more Mediterranean and sorely missed....